How to Help an Aggressive or Reactive Dog – Dogster

Do you think your dog might be reactive or even aggressive? Some reactivity is normal and necessary for survival, but when is it time to ask for help? Maybe you’re frustrated or embarrassed by your dog’s meltdowns during deliveries, or sad or even scared by your dog’s barking and punching at neighborhood dogs. It doesn’t mean you have a bad dog or are a bad dog sitter. But it does mean your dog needs help managing his feelings about certain parts of his life.

Emotions determine behavior. So if your dog lacks the skills to deal with what scares him, his reaction will likely be to run away, freeze, or fight. Michael Shikashio, Certified Behavior Consultant specializing in aggressive dogs, says, “I don’t know the difference between reactivity and aggression; they are one and the same. We look at actual behavior. Usually, aggressive behavior is rooted in fear and “intended to threaten the removal of a provocative stimulus,” says Michael.

The causes of fear-based aggression vary, but could be related to:

• inappropriate socialization
  at the start of development
• learn history
• environment
• trauma
• genetic

Dog’s Aggressive or Reactive Triggers

Suppose your dog’s stimulus or trigger is strangers. When she sees them, she tries to create distance and hides (flight). But maybe a well-meaning stranger is closing in, so she freezes. Then the person reaches out to stroke it, and it smacks or bites (fights).

Or suppose the trigger is other dogs and she barks and rushes around, trying to make the scary things go away. If the dogs walk away (or even keep walking in the direction they were heading anyway), she feels that her behavior has “worked” and she will likely display those behaviors again. Unless she gets help.

Here are some typical triggers that cause aggression in dogs:

• foreigners
• Other dogs
• Cats; squirrels, chipmunks or other critters
• Home visitors or delivery people
• Grooming procedures (especially nail clipping) or other manipulations
• Being disturbed while resting or sleeping
• Resource guarding (protecting food, chews, toys, sleeping areas, etc.) – a normal behavior that can get worse if not addressed early on

Signs of aggressive behavior

So what does aggressive behavior look like? A wagging tail is not always a sign of friendship or happiness!

A dog’s body language should be assessed as a whole, but look for:

• Hard stare or “whale eye”
• Body leaning forward
• Tight mouth or corners of the
  “C” or “V” mouth
• Ears prick forward
• Tail erect, can wag /
  vibrant
• tense body

More obvious signs of aggression would include:

• bark
• dash
• growl
• slam
• biting

The “nips” are bites! And if your dog growls, don’t punish him, even verbally. A growl is a warning – punishing her means your dog may not give that gift next time.

Body signs of fear

Because fear is the most common cause of aggression, it’s essential to know when your dog is afraid and to be supportive.

Look for:

• Folded tail
• curled up
• Ears pulled back
• Head turned to the side
  and/or averted eyes
• Licking lips, flicking tongue
• Yawn
• Gasping or closed mouth
• Hypervigilance
• Rhythm
• Leave

How to Stop Dog Aggressive Behavior

If you observe aggressive body language or behavior, here is what you should do:

1. Manage the behavior by removing your dog from the situation before things get out of hand.
2. Any dog ​​exhibiting aggressive behavior should undergo a thorough examination to rule out medical causes, especially if the behavior has a sudden onset. Michael points out, “In many cases of aggression, there is an underlying medical issue or a need for behavioral medication or other support, starting with the vet.”
3. After excluding medical concerns, the focus is on emotions. Certified behavioral consultant Pat Miller says, “Fear-related aggression is by far the most common presentation of aggression that I see in my behavioral practice. If you think your dog might be aggressive, it’s essential to seek professional help as soon as possible. The professional trainer will create a behavioral treatment plan tailored specifically for your dog after an assessment.
4. In the meantime, prioritize safety. Manage your dog’s environment to protect people, especially children and other animals. Limit or even eliminate, when possible, his exposure to triggers as much as possible until you can implement a training plan. This can include using exercise pens, baby gates, or even putting your dog in another room to avoid exposure to visitors or delivery people. Feeling the urge to react, even aggressively, is not fun for your dog, so give him a safe place to go. Add a food puzzle toy, to make it a good thing. If your dog is triggered by strangers, other dogs, or outside creatures, walk your dog in less-trafficked areas at less busy times and when the creatures are less active. Anticipate triggers when possible and set your dog up for success. Also remember to properly train your dog in a properly fitted muzzle. Don’t just muzzle him! Hire a professional to ensure your dog benefits from the muzzle for the long term.
5. Prevent your dog from being exposed to what frightens him until you have help and a plan on board. Pat says, “We don’t want to give our dog the opportunity to practice the aggressive behavior…the more opportunities the dog has to practice the behavior, the harder it becomes to modify that behavior, so the longer the human waits, the more the challenge.” Pat says to reduce stress and minimize as many stressors as possible, not just the immediate trigger. Make a list of the things that stress your dog and try to eliminate them as much as possible and minimize the being less stressed means your dog feels better and is more receptive to learning.

Treatment for aggressive or reactive dogs

Because we look at behavior in the context in which it occurs, there is no single method of treatment.

Modern approaches to the treatment of aggression are based on:

• discover the underlying causes of aggressive behavior
• address the underlying causes so dogs can learn healthy ways to cope with fear, stress and anxiety.

Treatment plans today vary but often include counter-conditioning and desensitization, which work to change how dogs feel about triggers ranging from “Yikes, that’s scary!” to “Yeah! That’s great!” Operant conditioning, such as the Look-at-That Protocol, helps dogs learn to voluntarily and calmly engage and disengage from triggers.

Many treatment plans also involve medication prescribed by a veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist.

New treatment approaches may also incorporate one or more of the following:

• enrichment frames (ensuring dogs’ needs are met)
• relaxation exercises (teaching calm behavior)
• empowerment (encouraging choice and control)
• ethology (understanding the relationships between genetics and behavior)
• error-free learning (prevent
  unwanted responses)
• canine cognition (integrate problem solving and
  decision making)
• microbiomes (testing and studying the gut/brain connection)

Research on aggressive or reactive behavior in dogs

We also keep an eye out for research and studies like Darwin’s Ark, a scientific collaboration involving professionals and pet parents. A member of this team, Dr. Jessica Hekman hopes to use canine genetics research to better understand the genes that affect aggression.

Dr. Hekman says, “We currently have no predictive genetic markers for dog aggression. We don’t think we’ll ever be able to genetically test a shelter dog to predict if they’ll be safe pets, but we may one day be able to help breeders better guess what dogs they should breed to produce safer pets.

Remember: your dog is not giving you a hard time; She has difficulties. Be your dog’s advocate and assemble a team of pros to help you. And have compassion for your dog and yourself – dealing with aggression is hard.

teach this game

Look at this! is a counter-conditioning protocol also known as an engage/disengage game. To prevent your dog from getting overly excited in the presence of a trigger (like another dog), he calmly learns to look (engage) and look away (disengage) from the trigger instead of reacting.

Here’s how to start:

1. Use a marker – a word like “yes” or a clicker. Pair the marker with a million dollar treat a dozen times so your dog knows the word/click predicts something awesome.
2. With your dog on a leash, stand a safe distance from the trigger, so he is aware but not reacting.
3. When your dog looks at the trigger, use your marker and as soon as he looks at you, give him the treat. Repeat at least a dozen times.
4. Gradually decrease the distance between your dog and the trigger, and mark and treat if he is unresponsive. Repeat several times before decreasing the distance again.

Patience is the key. You want your dog to be able to constantly stare at the trigger unresponsively from increasingly closer distance. Here are a few tips :

If your dog doesn’t look at you and remains focused on the trigger or reacts, return to Step 1 and/or increase the distance between your dog and the trigger and repeat.

Start with a low-level trigger in a familiar, low-stress environment.

Don’t get too close too fast – let your dog dictate the pace of progress.

When faced with an unexpected trigger, immediately head in a different direction to increase the distance.

Consider training your dog with a Look signal or a U-turn/Walk Away signal in advance for these types of situations.

If your dog struggles and reacts at any distance, ask a trainer for help.

Read more about this technique in our sister post Whole Dog Diary at journal-de-chien-entier.com entitled How to teach your dog to walk away.

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